Remembering those such as Raven, the rest of U- shut uppa your face
August 4th 2008 05:35
Lifted, without apology from:
Vietnam Veterans Federation of Australia - ACT branch -
Our 13 Picking Up The Peaces for PTSD trekkers completed their nine days on the Kokoda Track in one piece… and totally in awe of the efforts by Australian Diggers in those beautiful, deadly Owen Stanley Ranges in 1942.
As we pulled ourselves to the crest of yet another near-vertical razor-topped ridge, rivers of sweat waterfalling from our noses, team-mates and porters applauded and offered jelly beans, fruit, or water, and we sank to the ground for rest and recovery.
We could only wonder at the Diggers of Maroubra Force - the 39th Battalion, the 2/14th, 2/16th and the other units of the 16th, 21st, 25th and 30th Brigades that followed them through this country 66 years ago.
They reached those same ridges starved, wracked by dysentery, malaria, long-term sleep deprivation, with festering feet, loads weighing up to 65kg, many carrying multiple wounds, and the hypervigilance required to stay alive in a battle zone. We had it easy!
Total casualties of Australian soldiers on the Kokoda Trail from July to November 1942, numbered 1,680. Of these, 625 were killed. Casualties due to sickness exceeded 4,000. The Japanese are believed to have lost over 6500 killed - a ratio of 10:1.
Considering that the Australians were initially poorly trained and poorly equipped militia, and the Japanese were elite special forces unbeaten in more than eight years of campaigning, that result beggars belief.
As part of their general strategy in the Pacific, the Japanese sought to capture Port Moresby. The port would have given them a base from which they could strike at most of north eastern Australia, and control of a major route between the Pacific and Indian Oceans.
The first attempt by sea-borne amphibious invasion was thwarted by the Battle of the Coral Sea. Plan B was to mount an overland assault across the Owen Stanley Range to capture Port Moresby.
Many believe they intended to use Port Moresby as their base to invade Australia. Had they succeeded, Australia today might have been a very different country.
Against that background, walking Kokoda today has a significance well beyond the magnificent scenery, heart-warming people and challenging tracks.
Our four veterans - Peter Kercher and Laurie Drake (Vietnam), Phil Larkham (Timor-Leste) and Bernie Nihill (Solomons) - perhaps experienced it differently, but we were all struck by the overwhelming support of the local Koiroi people. They supplied most of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels in 1942, and our porters today. Incredibly, 19 trekkers (we adopted six rascals from Adelaide and the Sunshine Coast) required 34 porters, even though three of us carried all our own gear!
The personal porters were incredible. They pitched and packed tents, cleaned boots and washed and folded clothes, filled water containers, gave concerts, and anticipated their trekker's needs to the point where some even seemed telepathic. On the track, they pushed trekkers uphill, held out supportive hands during log and river crossings, and clutched packs to prevent their charges crashing down the slippery descents.
And, oh, the track! Its 96km is well-travelled - 5000 (mainly Australians) trekked it last year, and each day we passed other parties travelling north, in the opposite direction to us. But its surface is narrow, precipitous, tortuous, ripped by slippery roots and ankle-turning rocks. Parts are perpetually wet and greasy, deeply pocked by quagmires of black mud and slick clay.
Navigation is generally not difficult, although the trail is actually a network of tracks used by local villagers to reach their gardens, or friends, or destinations. Many of those tracks have nothing to do with the 'major thoroughfare', so a guide was very useful.
But the overwhelming sense is of the steepness of the ridges, up and down - have a look at this elevation profile. At times we would climb for hours or descend knee-wrenching 'undulations' for hours through features that in wartime were known by such names as 'the Japanese Ladder' or 'the Golden Staircase' - one of which reputedly had 4000 steps.
Although how anyone counted them, I've no idea. To take your eyes off the ground for any reason invited disaster, with one of our number tumbling down a cliff, many a 'touchdown' and ricked knee or ankle. We learned quickly that walking and looking at the scenery were two totally different - and separate - tasks!
We paused for memorial services at two of the most prominent battle sites - Isurava (where Bruce Kingsbury won his VC and Charlie McCallum almost did - it was downgraded to DCM) - and Brigade Hill. Our Kokoda Spirit trekking company guide Wayne Wetherall issued a eulogy, prayers, poems and honours lists to various trekkers to read, and then our Rural Fire Services representative Lindon Kinder played Last Post on a trumpet. And our porters sang. Very moving.
There's a monument to the Australian troops at Isurava, overlooking the magnificent Yodda Valley - four granite pillars engraved with the words Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice. And a small one on the peak of Brigade Hill.
At Myola, Oribaiwa and Imita Ridge the monuments are in the form of rotting weapons and ammunition dumps, the remains of Japanese and Australian fortifications, mountain gun positions, ordnance and weapons pits. Plus plaques to trekkers who have died on the track in the last couple of years.
There is an eeriness, and a splendour to these key points along the track. Even beyond the physical exhaustion, you feel them in the air. At night the fireflies may be the ghosts of warriors still flitting through the jungle, but there's a peace about the place too, a satisfaction of a job done hard, but well.
The time passed remarkably quickly. We managed to spread awareness of post traumatic stress disorder and attract financial and medical support for the Picking Up The Peaces campaign. We laid the foundations for growing awareness in the year ahead, and cemented a team to carry it forward.
The contribution of Vietnam Veterans Federation ACT Branch was inestimable - and is the vibrant seed of a lot of worthwhile future benefits for younger veterans of Australia's military and emergency deployments.
And for the curious - 'Kokoda Trail' and 'Kokoda Track' have been used interchangeably since the Second World War. 'Kokoda Trail' was adopted by the Battles Nomenclature Committee as the official British Commonwealth battle honour in October 1957. In 2008 the Papua New Guinea Parliament established a Place Names Commission which endorsed the use of 'Kokoda Trail'. However, the sign at Owers Corner has Trail on one side, and Track on the other, and old Diggers invariably refer to it as the 'Kokoda Track'.
Sleep and PTSD is coming slowly, Raven
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Comment by tlcorbin
So many brave men and women carry the invisible scar in additional to the visible scars from physical wounds.
This story resonates well with me.
Comment by katyzzz
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Sleep is not going to be an easy one, you've probably heard it all and tried it all before, but keep trying my friend.
Cultivate a quiet routine before going to bed at much the same time each night, for a starter.
But I can understand those nights when you are just so alert sleep will just evade you.
Comment by tlcorbin
Comment by James Rickard
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Check this out...
The wounds suffered in ANY conflict may not be apparent, I have a friend whose dad went to the dr. with a circulation problem in his feet. Right away the dr. asked, *Did you ever have frost bite?" My friend's dad answered, "I was in the Battle of the Bulge." To make it short, about 6 mo. later he had to have BOTH feet removed just below the knee!